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vrijdag 18 december 2015

Geraldton - Mount Augustus


Since our previous blog post, we drove about 1.400 km. We have visited many amazing places and we enjoy our travel very much. It is great to have the time, and to share all these nice moments with the two of us. We thought that it couldn't get any better after all the nice experiences we had so far, but we are happy to tell you that it did get even better!! As the pictures in this blog post will show, we are really having an amazing time.

Currently it is summer in Australia and that means low season in terms of tourism, especially in the region where we currently are. The reason is that the temperature is - according to the Ozzies - too high here. However, the weather is - according to us - very nice (27-35 degrees during the day and 15-20 degrees during the night) with quite some wind along the coast. This means that we are sometimes at very touristic places just by ourselves, which we really like. In addition, we don't have to make reservations at camp sites, since there is always plenty of room for our campervan. At the same time, there are just enough people traveling, which allows us to meet nice people on our way.

When we were writing our previous blog post, we were in Geraldton. At this moment, we are in Carnarvon and tomorrow we will drive to Coral Bay. The past three days we hired a 4x4 and travelled all the way to Mount Augustus, the biggest rock in the world (and we even climbed it)! But before we will enthusiastically tell you all about it, let us start where we finished our previous blog. Below we added a map of our route, to visualize where are. :-)

Our route of past 10 days
When we left Geraldton about 10 days ago, we visited one of the lookouts on our way to Kalbarri. It was a short off road track, and that's where we saw our first kangaroos! :-) Two kangaroos were crossing the road, just in front of our car, which was truly amazing. We also passed Port Gregory Pink Lake and we were lucky to see it so pink (it depends how pink it is on the time of the day and the position of the sun). We had lunch at a lovely spot in Port Gregory, where we watched a couple of kite surfers playing with the waves.   


Lookout somewhere between Geraldton and Kalbarri
Kangaroo! :-)
Yes, it's really pink: as pink as Erik's pants! ;-)
Pink lake
Having lunch at a lovely spot overlooking the Indian Ocean
And back to the highway via the pink lake again
Usually, when we go to the next city or town, we do some research on what we can do there, we make kind of a planning along the way on the amount of nights we want to stay. However, for some reason, we did not read in our lonely planet, nor did we check the internet about Kalbarri. That's why we did not really know what to expect, but this National Park was really one of the highlights of our stay in Western Australia so far. The National Park has two different parts. The first part is along the coast, with magnificent limestone cliffs aside the Indian Ocean. There were many lookout points that we all visited. 

Island Rock
Overlooking the Indian Ocean
Natural Bridge (will become an Island Rock some day) ;-)
Look out! :-)
Nice views!
After a long day of sightseeing, Erik opened our own cocktail bar for a nice gin-tonic! ;-) 

Our own cocktail bar
Cocktail bar/terrace with sea view
Not only in Kalbarri, but at many places along the coast, you find information signs of the various Dutch ships of the Dutch East Indian Company (VOC) that were on their way to Indonesia (Batavia), but mistakenly ended up in front of the coast of Australia.

Sign about the Zuytdorp shipwreck
Watching the sunset
The next day we explored the second part of Kalbarri National Park, which gave us the feeling that we were really in Australia: river gorges, red sandstone and pure rough nature. We visited the Hawk's Head lookout first, where we enjoyed the stunning view and a nice cup of home-made coffee (Erik opened his coffee bar ;-)). Afterwards, we drove to the Ross Graham lookout where we made a hike down to the river. After lunch we made a short walk to the Z-Band lookout and saved the best for last: Nature's Window, a very famous place that you find in many tourist brochures of WA.

Hawk's Head lookout
Enjoying the view
Erik's coffee bar ;-)
We spotted a lizard during one of our hikes
Having lunch at Kalbarri National Park
On our way to the Z-Band Lookout
Nice gorge!
Enjoying the view
The Loop Lookout
Nature's Window 
Enjoying the view from Nature's Window
At the T-intersection
Since it was quite a long drive, we were quite tired and decided not to cook, but to eat fish & chips that we ate while watching the sunset at one of the lookouts off the coast.

Fish & chips with a view
Beautiful sunset
Found a nice place without wind to watch the sunset
The next day we took it easy and we went to the beach. Since Sinterklaas even knew how to find us at the other side of the world (thanks to Erik's parents!), we bought two snorkels and of course tried them directly at the Blue Holes. We saw very nice tropical fish (large and small)! After this underwater adventure, we (of course) prepared ourselves a nice barbecue with a t-bone steak. Driving along the coast, we actually expected more fresh fish in the supermarkets, but 'unfortunately' they only sell (very good quality) meat in supermarkets (and then you realize how 'watery' our chicken back home is). After our nice lunch, we made a walk to another beautiful beach, where we watched the sunset.    

Erik is very happy with his Sinterklaas present ;-)
Snorkling at the Blue Holes at Kalbarri
Our kitchen!
Walk to the beach
Beautiful spot (and again no other tourists!)
Another 'natural bridge' ;-) 

Just before the sun was setting, we drove to our next destination, a free camp site 50 km out of town (because we had a long drive the day after). We made a quick stop at the Meanarra Hill lookout and then we continued driving to this camp site. When we made our dinner, we even watched 'De Wereld Draait Door', since we had a very good internet connection with our phone! In the night we enjoyed the beautiful stars. There was no light at the camp site and we had never seen the sky so bright with so many stars before. It was just beautiful! 


Meanarra Hill lookout 
Free camp spot
Watching 'De Wereld Draait Door' ;-)
The next day we had a long drive, all the way to Denham. On our way we stopped to fill our tanks with water (since it is so hot, we drink a lot!) and enjoyed a coffee at a nice roadhouse.

Filling up our water tanks
Coffee at the Overlander Roadhouse
Also part of our road trip: fuel it up!
Road trains at the petrol station
After the turn-off to the World Heritage Drive, our first stop was the Hamelin Pool. We were quite lucky, because it was low tide, which allowed us to clearly see the stromatolites. These are coral-like formations of bacteria that are one of the oldest forms of life on earth. They grow very slow and actually look like stones (but according to the lonely planet they are considered "largely responsible for creating our current atmosphere, paving the way for more complex life."). We walked down the boardwalk and enjoyed the beautiful view.

Hamelin Pool 
Boardwalk
Stromatolites 
Having lunch
The next stop was Shell Beach, with tiny shells instead of sand on the beach. It was beautiful to see.

Tiny cockle shells
The water here was very salty
Selfie time! ;-)
After the long drive (about 350 km), we phoned the Tourist Office in Denham and bought a permit to stay at one of the coastal bush camp sites (Eagle Bluff). It was absolutely beautiful to camp on the beach. Although there were no toilets, no showers, no running water, it was amazing to stay there for one night.

Preparing our dinner
Eating our pasta while watching the sunset
Beautiful sunset
The next morning we visited the cliff top view overlooking an azure blue lagoon at Eagle Bluff. 




Afterwards, we drove to Denham where we stayed at a regular camp side (of course also next to the beach). ;-) We visited the Ocean Park where we took a 60-minute guided tour. It was so interesting, because the marine biologist told us all about underwater life in Western Australia. We saw sea snakes, stonefish, turtles, many different fish and even sharks! We really loved the place and the people who worked there. They really care about all the fish/animals and turtles that are brought to them (for example because they swallowed too much plastic)...

Arriving at Denham
Turtle at Ocean Park
Lion fish (with quite dangerous spikes)
Real life discovery channel ;-)
Hello! ;-)
Sting ray (killed Steve Erwin)
I am hungry!!
Sharks...
Feeding the sharks
Beautiful sunset
We also visited Monkey Mia, which is one of the main tourist attractions in this area because you have the guarantee that you will see dolphins in the shallow waters off the coast. Actually it is nothing more than a place where they hand out free meals to dolphins. ;-) That was actually the reason why we did not want to go here, but if you are so close (and there was a new-born baby dolphin), we decided to wake up early to watch the dolphins. The night before we met two nice Dutch guys and we went to Monkey Mia with the four of us (half an hour drive from Denham). After watching the dolphins, we decided to make a small hike as well, where we spotted some nice birds as well as very funny crabs.

Dolphins at Monkey Mia
Catching the crabs! ;-)
Beautiful beach
Holy crab!
Hike at Monkey Mia
Birdwatching
Trying to learn something about the area
On our way back, we visited the Francois Peron National Park. With our 2WD campervan we could enter as fas as the old old Peron Homestead where we walked around the sheds and a natural hot spring. It is really funny to go in a hut tub when it is 35 degrees. ;-) After this visit we closed the day with a nice barbecue at the Little Lagoon (which was actually not so little).

'Little' Lagoon
Barbecue master!
That night we stayed again at one of the seaside bush camps, this time at Goulet Bluff, about 40 km out of Denham. After enjoying a nice beer, we watched the sunset and again the beautiful stars.

Cheers!
Beautiful sunset at Eagle Bluff
Good morning! Breakfast on the beach.
The next day we drove to Carnarvon, which is known for its fruit and vegetables plantations, as well as the old tramway and One Mile Jetty. They did not have a harbour in Carnarvon, so big boats could not make it close to the shore. Therefore, they built a one mile jetty with a tram/train track for the transportation of people and goods from the boats to the shore. The town was heavily damaged by a flooding in 2010, but nicely 'renovated' in the past five years.

One Mile Jetty

Old trucks in the museum
Old trains (rusting away...)
On the way to our next camp site, we made a stop at the blowholes. Here waves spray out of holes in the limestone rocks during a big swell. It was nice to sea the power of the water. An ozzie that was fishing there warned us that "king waves can kill!" and we indeed saw a sign commemorating the fishermen who died here. So we were very careful and watched the holes from a save distance. ;-)

Rough coast north of Denham
Blowholes
Blowholes
Blowholes
The next morning we drove a couple of km's off road to go back to the main road. It was a bumpy ride and unfortunately one of our cups did not survive it.

Whoops! ;-)
We made a quick stop at Point Quobba, a nice lagoon where Erik went snorkeling (and spotted some nice fish!) and I enjoyed reading my book. Very relaxing!

Having fun :-)
Point Quobba
Afterwards, we decided to drive back to Carnarvon. In some of the brochures we collected at the Visitor's Center, we red about 'Mount Augustus' and we actually really became enthusiastic about this rock, known as Burringurrah to the local Wadjari Aboriginal people. It was supposed to be one of the most spectacular solitary peaks of the world's largest monoclines: twice the size of Uluru, about 8 kms long, covers an area of almost 5,000 hectares and is estimated to be 1.750 million years old. The biggest rock of the world was located 450 km east of Carnarvon, only accessible with a 4WD. We went to the tourist office and asked them if we could go there, since we also read that there are not many tourists there in the summer (because the temperature can go up to 45 degrees). They said that - if we take heaps of water and we have a 4WD - it should be okay. Then we decided to just do it! 

Since our campervan is only 2WD, we decided to hire a 4WD for three days. There were two car rental companies in Carnarvan: Avis and Budget and we visited both. The first one unfortunately did not have any cars available, but Budget did! The only thing was, the lady at the counter said, that it was a 'hubby'. "A what?" we replied. "A hubby" the lady said. "You don't know what a hubby is?" Uhm... no, we didn't. She took a brochure and showed us a picture: "this" she said. All of us had to laugh and then we came to understand that a hubby is a Toyota Landcruiser with a tray on the back, often used by construction workers in the mining industry in WA. We didn't mind how the car looked like, if it would bring us safely to Mount Augustus! ;-) However, this was a V8 4.2 liter turbo, which was quite nice!! Very strong and the sound of the engine was pretty cool (quite a difference compared to our campervan!). After careful preparation (we took enough food, 180 liters of diesel, 50 liters of water, two spare tires, and some camping gear with us) we started this adventurous trip!


On our way!
Spotted some emu's on our way
We left around 2 pm and we arrived at the Gascoyne Junction, our first stop, around 6 pm. We stayed at a nice cabin at the side of the road and the only thing at the Junction was a fuel station and a pub. We had a beer at the pub and had a nice conversation with the owner.

Our 'hubby' and the cabin where we stayed the first night
The next day we woke up at 5am, since we had, according to the owner of the pub "to beat the heat"! We made sure we arrived at Mount Augustus National Park around 9.30am before the sun became really strong. The road was amazing and we enjoyed driving this route so much. We only saw about 4 other cars along this 450 km long road (crazy!) and the temperature was indeed going up. We saw many signs with 'this road is subjected to flooding', but this time of the year all the rivers were dried up.

No water in the rivers 
Around 6.30am: still 210 km to go! 
Just us (and the hubby)
That's the world's biggest rock: Mount Augustus!!
We stayed for two nights at the Mount Augustus Tourist Park. Apart from two construction workers and two other tourist with their 4WD campervan, it was just us staying there. After our check-in we drove around the rock and made a couple of short hikes. It was already pretty hot (over 40 degrees) and no shadow at all (the sun is right above you). Nevertheless, it was absolutely stunning to be here and if you drink enough water and do everything a bit slower, the heat is not really a problem (it felt a bit like Senegal).

Mount Augustus Tourist Park
Driving around the rock
View from Goordgeela lookout
Amazing scenery
Beautiful views
On our way down
Taking a rest at Goolinee pool  
View from Emu Hill lookout
View at the 'back' side of the rock
Aboriginal art
Sea life (apparently once the sea was here)
On our way back to the camp site

It was nice to see that the rock changed its color many times during the day. The next day we woke up really early (4am) to beat the heat, since we wanted to hike up to the summit of the mountain (1105m above sea level). It was a hike of 12 km and we climbed about 700m. When we started, the temperature was really nice (about 25 degrees) and it was beautiful to see the sunrise. We also passed the Flintstone rock, under which nice aboriginal art can be found. When we were about half-way, the sun came on 'our' side of the rock, but the toughest part was already behind us. At 8.30am we reached the top of the rock and the views were absolutely amazing! We signed the logbook and ate our sandwiches before we headed down. On our way down we also spotted two kangaroos! It was absolutely doable and really enjoyed it. We were again well prepared (took enough food and 7 liters of water with us) and although the trail was quite tough, it was not as hard as we expected. 


Information about the summit trail
Flintstone rock: jabadabadoo!!!  
Some more aboriginal art 
Beautiful views early morning
Half way our hike up to the summit: hello sun!
Getting there
Almost at the top (of the world)!!

Signing the logbook at the summit
On our way down
Looking for the signs on our way down
3/4 of our hike: around 10am
Water, water, water
Skippy! 
Almost back at the start
When we were back at our 'hubby' we drove back to the camp site, took a siesta, made some pasta and took it very easy. In the evening, we watched the sunset while drinking a nice ice cold beer and reflected on an amazing experience in the middle of the desert. We went to sleep early, since we had a long drive the day after (450 km back to Carnarvon). 


Sunset at Mount Augustus

Enjoying the last night

And that's where we are now. :-) We handed in our 'hubby' at Budget and booked one night at a camp site in Carnarvon. The upcoming days we will probably discover the underwater world of Coral Bay and drive up to Exmouth. We will probably write our next blog post in a week (or so). ;-) 

We wish everyone a merry Christmas and a happy new year! 

Warm regards, 

Erik & Annemarie

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